I’ve taken sleepers through Vietnam, mountain railways in Switzerland, the overnight from Hanoi to Sapa. Nothing touches the West Highland Line. I’ll die on this hill.
What makes it
Glasgow to Mallaig is about four hours of pure scenery — Loch Lomond, then Rannoch Moor (this completely bleak, totally empty highland plateau that honestly looks like the moon), then the mountains close in and it gets properly dramatic. The Glenfinnan Viaduct appears around a bend and everyone in the carriage just goes quiet for a second. It’s one of those moments.
Sit on the left going north
This is the one tip that actually matters. Left side gets the loch views. Right side gets them eventually but later and less. The left window seats go fast so board early.
Mallaig itself
Working fishing port at the end of the line. No tourist polish — just boats, cold salt air, and the best langoustines I’ve eaten anywhere. There’s a takeaway near the ferry terminal. Get the langoustines. Eat them on the dock. Take the last train back and watch the mountains go purple in the evening light. Return ticket was about £40. Worth every penny.